A lazy two-day drive to Dubbo included an overnight stopover at the Lake Talbot Caravan Park, Narrandera; very clean and great views of the lake, particularly at sunset.

From Dubbo we headed east along "The Golden Way" to Dunedoo, great bakery. A few kilometres past Dunedoo we turned north east along "The Black Stump Way" to Coolah and Coolah Tops National Park. The last few kilometres of the road into the park gently twists and turns as it climbs about 500meters in 4 kilometres to a plateau. However the first section was being graded, exposing a solid clay surface that would certainly provide a bit of excitement after rain.

This is the only NP we have encountered that besides no charge for entry, or camping, they actually encourage you to pick up firewood in the park. The views from the Pinnacles over the Breeza Plains were spectacular, as were the Norfolk Falls. The snow gums, the abundant bird and wildlife, plus the frogs serenading us to sleep at night was absolutely great. The major disappointment was that the main road across the Warung Plateau to Breeza lookout and beyond, as well as a number of the 4WD tracks, was closed due to "wet weather". Walking on one 4WD track I could understand why it was closed as it was like a marsh, and already damaged (deep ruts) caused no doubt years ago by 4WDs. But why was the main 2WD road closed, many kilometres from the Breeza lookout?

Leaving Coolah Tops we headed north through Cunningham’s Pandora Pass. A sign saying "Impassable in Wet Weather", with the road narrowing to little more than a track, starts to get my adrenalin flowing and the colour draining from Shirl’s face. Well, it was easy and worth the drive for the views of the Liverpool Plains toward Gunnedah. We then continued on through Bundella to Werris Creek and on to Tamworth, via part of "The Bushman Way", and on to Armidale through some of the richest looking farmland you could wish to see. Whilst in Werris Creek we watched this chap driving his 4WD, with large Caravan on tow, heading up the road toward Tamworth speaking on his CB. Would you believe he was asking a truckie which way to Tamworth? Never ceases to amaze me how well prepared some people are. This guy had been on this well sign posted only direct road to Tamworth for the last 40 kilometres, and was still asking directions!

Armidale is the west gateway to "The Waterfall Way", the route from the New England Tablelands to the coast near Coffs Harbour. Right on Armidale’s doorstep is the Oxley Wild National Park. We toured Dangars Falls, Gara Gorge, Metz, Bakers Creek Falls, Hillgrove, and Wollombi Gorge. The basalt gorges are just unbelievable, however east of Armidale has obviously not had recent rain, thus the waterfalls were not at their best. National Parks have been very active with lots of new works to the various visitor areas. New paving, BBQ’s, viewing platforms, fences, information boards and parking areas very close to the gorges and falls.

The first stop on the Waterfall Way is the excellent Wollombi bush camp area with levelled tiered sites, each with a paved area around the BBQ (wood supplied). However because many of the tiers are to the road, a camper trailer cannot access many of the sites (they call this "car based camping").

We moved 60 kilometres to the New England National Park where again a camper trailer could not access the campsites inside the Parks camping ground ("car based camping"). However there is a delightful bush caravan area, firewood supplied, on the Styx River just outside the park boundary. Views from the Point Lookout are breathtaking, but due to the haze you could not quite see the Pacific Ocean. We toured/walked the park taking in all the scenic points then drove through the Cunnawarra National Park. Wonderful 2WD drive, with the flora constantly changing. This "The Styx Forest Way" on which the brochures show other camping areas, Wattle Flat & Farewell Flat, next to the Styx River. Magnificent spots, but Shirl would say they are 4WD tracks into the camping areas. We toured to the Ebor Falls, on the edge of the Guy Fawkes River National Park, and Cathedral Rock National Park. The walk to the top of Cathedral Rock is a scramble/rock climb over the last couple of hundred metres, but worth it for the view. The only down side to the Styx River campsite was the 2-degree morning we experienced; however the days were magnificent. Then like Coolah Tops you are some 1300 –1400 metres above sea level.

It was time to seek the comforts of 240v, washing machines, town water, and TV (?), so our next stop was about 80 kilometres down the road at the Dorrigo Caravan Park. Well it is a Caravan Park full of potential, it is still somewhat 1960ish (20cents in the slot for a shower), however it is very clean and fulfilled our immediate needs. The Danger Falls just north of the fair sized town is worth the look, but the highlight of the trip so far is no doubt the Dorrigo National Park. This World Heritage listed National Park is definitely a must see. The Rainforest centre with its magnificent Skywalk above the Rainforest Canopy is excellent despite the March flies waiting for you at the end of the Skywalk. Then there were the Bush Turkeys trying very hard to steal your Devonshire Teas at the Canopy Café, a little off putting! However nothing could detract from the walk through the forest to the two waterfalls and the "Walk with the Birds" elevated walkway. Words cannot describe what you see, and how you can feel, smell, and hear this extremely diversified, magnificent rainforest.

Batteries recharged, cloths washed, it was now to the coast. A few problems with the Camper’s winding mechanism as we were about to leave, but the repair worked well. The views on the drive down from the New England Tableland over the Bellingen Valley are breathtaking. The Butter Factory, just through Bellingen, is a great morning tea stop with some interesting craft shops around the café. We hit the coast midway between Coffs Harbour and Nambucca Heads, and proceeded south to just near South West Rocks, to the most magnificent, virtually deserted campground. The Smoky Cape Rest Area (firewood supplied) in Hat Head National Park, about 150 kilometres from Dorrigo, is a small area in the middle of a quite dense coastal rainforest. Packed with Gums, Paperbarks, Palms, and Creepers. It is rich in birdlife and wildlife, plus 150 metres through the rainforest is this magnificent ocean beach with the finest white sand. At night there was the sound of the bush plus the roar of the surf lulling you to sleep. Paradise!!

We followed the Tourist Drive (# 12) the couple of kilometres, via the Smoky Cape Lighthouse, to Aarakroon State Recreation Reserve and Trial Bay Goal. The comparatively open Caravan Park was quite full, as were those in the delightful town of South West Rocks. Now South West Rocks has amongst its residents this incredible Irish Doctor who I had the pleasure of meeting. It was a "business meeting", and a laugh a minute as he repaired the broken top of the my left index finger. So if you are going to put your finger where it shouldn’t really go, and consequently do some real damage, do it near South West Rocks and look up Dr Leggett. Tourist Drive # 12 continues down to the other end of Hat Head National Park (what a contrast in the flora) and on eventually to Crescent Head. What a place! The houses on top of the ridge have views of two fantastic bays. This Tourist Drive to Crescent Head/Kempsey from Smokey Cape passes through some great farmland on your left and the wide Macleay River on your right. Very picturesque.

Continuing on down the coast for about 120 kilometres to our next camp at Diamond Head in Crowdy Bay National Park (midway between Port Macquarie and Taree). This was not on our original plan but a fellow traveller suggested it. Mixtures of open and bush camp areas with a large amenity block (cold water only and no power to the sites). Costs of $10 per couple plus $6 per vehicle per night. However the beaches and the walks are great. The long walk up Diamond Head then down to Indian Head/Kylies Beach yields some fantastic views over the low coastal scrub. The walk back to camp leads through this gully with a small stream and rainforest totally protected from the harsh coastal winds.

Our next camp destination was to be at The Ruins in Bootie Bootie National Park just south of Forster. Well, what a disappointment, besides mainly "car based camping", you might as well camp in the middle of a football field. As it was time again to catch up on some washing etc, we pressed on to Hawks Nest Caravan Park, north of Port Stephens. What a lovely holiday place, great beaches and right on the doorstep of Myall Lakes National Park.

Nearly all of the Myall lakes National Park beautiful camping spots were closed for "repair". A falling tree limb killed a camper a while back, hence National Parks are checking out all the trees in all the camping areas. The main camping area at Mungo Brush, on Bombah Broadwater, was half closed and fully occupied by water skiers. A beautiful setting totally ruined by the continual sound of speedboat motors. The road through the National Park from Hawks Nest to Bulahdelah is sealed most of the way with a Ferry crossing at Bombah Point. There is a track marked on the maps that goes from near Bombah Point up to Seal Rocks. We gave up after about three kilometres as it was becoming potholes on potholes and no longer fun, considering there was at least another 20 kilometres to go and it wasn’t even 4WD. We returned to the main drag and went the long smooth way via Bulahdelah to Seal Point, dropping in on NSW’s tallest known tree "The Grandis". A bit of a let down after Victoria’s Ada tree. Next time we are up this way and want a Caravan Park we would probably stay at Seal Rocks, as it looked a very interesting and popular spot.

Well it was now time to move onto the Big Smoke and catch up with Shirl’s sister and family in Sydney’s west. It was one of those days; we all have them from time to time. We had a 3 hour delay in leaving (serious camper winder problems this time), struck headwinds all the way down to Sydney making driving interesting with all the Semi-trailers, hit peak hour traffic, then managed to rip the awning off the camper on a tree outside Shirl’s sisters house. That’s life! Just one of those occasional days that throws up some variety and makes life so enjoyable!!! Sure beats staying at home.

After Shirley was all talked out we continued westward out of Sydney through Katoomba to Hartley, then south through Oberon, passing the Jenolan Caves turn off with its imposing "Not suitable for Caravan sign" (doesn’t stop large tour buses going up).

Just after passing Black Springs a few kilometers down the road, there is another of those roadway signs. This one is saying that "In 50k there are steep sections, Not suitable for Caravans". Hey, that’s approximately where we planned to camp at Bumaroo Ford camping area in Abercrombie National Park (suitable for Caravans according to the "Boiling Billy Camping in NSW, 1^st edition", we were working from). Something’s not right, so a quick U-Turn and checking at the local general store (that’s all there is in Black Springs) suggests take your time, you’ll be OK "my father does it with a much bigger rig than yours". Well the road soon changes to dirt and is a little slippery in patches. Then about halfway to Goulburn there are warning signs of steep grades. Well you drop 500 metres in about 3 kilometres rounding hairpin-bend after hairpin-bend, finally coming to level ground right at the turn off to the Bumaroo Ford camping area.

To our disappointment we find that the great camping area next to the Abercrombie River is roped off with cable so it is "car based camping" only. We decide to continue on to Goulburn. We discover that as we cross the river and start to climb (another 500 metres up, in about 5 kilometres), there is a large picnic area on the other side of the river but we cannot do a U-turn until we reach the plateau. We give up and press on to Goulburn. This was a slow 280 kilometre trip (100 kilometres more than the direct Highway route), about 200 kilometres of which is above 1000 metres through some most magnificent country with absolutely stunning views around every corner.

We stayed at the Goulburn South Caravan Park. Sorry to say, but what a dump, and they still charge top dollar. Should have turned off to the Wombeyan Caves 75 kilometres before Goulburn. We have since learnt from a number of travellers that there is a good camp area, and the caves are equal if not better than the Jenolan Caves. Moving on we headed for Cooma, via the centre of Canberra just for a passing look, then to Jindabyne.

We stayed at the Kosciusko Mountain Retreat, a privately run Caravan Park 14 kilometres out of Jindabyne. Now there is our idea of a bush Caravan Park. It is located within the National Park and they have created campsites, which aren’t on top of one another, between the snow gums. Each caravan site has its own power, water, sullage point, and fireplace but supply or purchase your own wood. Wonderful setting, but it is $20 per night plus your National Park entry of $15.00 per night. Thankfully we purchased a NSW All Parks pass before the start of our trip. Touring the Snowy Mountains was a treat.

We did the # 1Tour which includes the Alpine Way; Jindabyne, Adaminaby, Kiandra, Tumut 2 Power Station, Cabramurra, Khancoban and up the "Alpine Way" back to Jindabyne. Some 360 Kilometres and 9 hours, allowing for stops at many of the many lookouts. Driving is slow in these mountains. This was followed by visits to all the various Ski Resorts and a ride on the "Skitube" train to the Blue Cow ski slopes. The amount of snow still remaining on the mountains, plus a recent dump a few days before we arrived, meant that you could not get to the top of Mount Kosciuszko without a bit of a struggle through the snow.

Our route home was full of contrast. We snaked our way across the plateau between Jindabyne and Bombala via Delgety and Maffra. Most of the trip is between 900 and 1000 metres above sea level with magnificent vistas of this superb virtually treeless grazing land surrounded by hills. Every now and then you would drop down into these truly picture book valleys. 80 of the 108 kilometres is sealed to varying degrees, the remainder was quite good dirt road. From Bombala, a picturesque little town about to expand with the soon to be constructed timber mill, we drove down the Monaro and Cann Valley Highways to Cann River. Most of this is between 200 and 300 metres above sea level through arguably the most forested area of Victoria; often following a rather sad looking Cann River. Arriving at Cann River, it was turn right, and follow Highway 1 to .

We were on the road for 23 days, covering 4726 kilometres with diesel consumption averaging 15.2 litres/100km (range of 13.9 to 17.3). Weather was near perfect mid 20’s during the days, cool to cold nights and a few extremely cold mornings, plus one night of overnight rain.

Oct/Nov 2001.