Background
This was a Jackaroo 4WD Club organised trip in September 2000. The meeting point for the trip was the Palms Caravan Park, Mildura. A small quiet, very clean, Park just a few kilometres out of the CBD, and is our preferred stopover when travelling through Mildura.
Mildura to Burra.
Starting off down the Sturt Highway to be pulled over as expected near Renmark for the Fruit Fly inspection.
Thankfully there was a long line of cars and vans ahead and behind us so the inspectors did not want the camper opened up.

It was a Sunday and we were told the only Supermarket open in the area was at Berri so this was to be our first stop. An hour later, after stocking up with fruit and vegetables, we were back on the road and turning onto route 64.

Morning tea stop was at the old historic Overland Corner Hotel. Quite an isolated spot and well worth a stop for a break to have a look around. Naturally one also has to sample their wares. Interestingly the 1956 Murray River flood mark is three quarters the way up the hotel’s wall.

Next stop was for lunch 60 kilometres down the road at Morgan, the most northerly town on the banks of a very wide Murray River. Fascinating spot with lots of history associated with the railway station, riverboat wharf, and old morgue (for those that drowned in the river). Pleasant spot to sit, have lunch, and watch the houseboats go by and the Ferry go back and forth.

100 kilometres further along is the historic town of Burra where mid afternoon we set up camp in the Caravan Park, before wandering around some of the towns historic sites. Dating back to 1845 when copper was discovered, Burra still has many of the old Cornish Style Cottages and many of the old buildings still standing. There is still evidence of the caves in which some of the poorer miners lived high up on the creek banks. A very interesting place that is deserving of more time than we have on this trip.

Burra to Trezona Camp.
We turned north up the Barrier Highway for about 60 kilometres then turned off to Peterborough and on to Orroroo for the morning tea stop. Continuing north through Carrieton and Cradock we pulled into Hawker for lunch. After lunch it was a quick top up with fuel (bags of firewood, from Wilpena Pound, $5.50 at the servo) then it was off to Wilpena Pound. Stop for a look around the National Parks Shop and Chalet Shop (bags of firewood $7.50 with $1.00 refund on the bag) then it was on for a further 30 kilometres north to Trezona Camp, arriving mid afternoon.

Wilpena area.
Trezona Camp, what a great spot! A bush camp that is on the flats beside the dry Brachina Creek is really something. Beautiful green countryside with many splendid large gum trees on the riverside, and a magnificent view of the hills across this sea of purple (Patterson’s Curse) and white (Onion weed) flowers covering the plains on the other side. There were emus wandering around the area, plenty of bird life overhead, and despite it being school holidays no other camps within a couple of hundred meters. Also there was no traffic as the road to the camp is a dead end off the Brachina Gorge Trail.

The Brachina Gorge Trail is a geological trail that leads through the National Park to the Hawker-Maree Highway with interpretive signs along the way that takes one back through time some 500 million years. The various stops along the trail eg. at rock formations, cliffs overlooking creek beds etc., are informative and in many cases quite picturesque.

We took the turn off to Aroona and the ruins of Hayward’s homestead. A fantastic drive through this sea of purple, white and green with the Heysen and ABC ranges as backdrops. What a site for a homestead, be it the current building that is there or the ruins of the homestead that is up this small hill. You could never get sick of the views. No wonder so many artists have come to this area to paint.

Back to the trail and after a short distance you enter the Brachina Gorge. Shirl started to think it was a 4WD trip as it was quite rocky in parts, washaways, and creek crossings both wet and dry. The magnificent scenery made for a slow drive through the gorge as we were taking in the views and stopping every now and then to soak up the surrounds. There were quite a number of camps set up in the gorge, some in the most unlikely places such that a sudden thunderstorm would have caused a bit of panic. Eventually you come out of the park so it was a U-turn and drive back through.

We took the off the Trail onto the road that went along the Heysen Range to the Bunyeroo Valley and onto Wilpena Pound. Beautiful views of the range with numerous lookouts giving different views of Wilpena Pound, and plenty of birdlife around the many delightful picnic areas.

Just before reaching the turn off to Wilpena Pound there is a road leading to Sacred Canyon.

Sacred Canyon is one of those canyons that as you drive along you don’t expect to be there. Beautiful old gums line this creek bed that had a trickle of water. The walk up the canyon is under a canopy formed by the gums. After a short distance you come to an opening and you find you are in a small gorge.

Here there is some Aboriginal drawings on the rock walls. Further along the canyon narrows and it becomes a bit of a rock climb to proceed. Water flowing through this section does not make it any easier. A delightful spot and one can see why the aborigines considered it sacred. It was an ideal spot for our picnic lunch.

We drove into Wilpena Chalet. The place was packed, difficult to get a car park, people everywhere, school holidays! No thanks; back to camp, we will return to Wilpena Pound another time outside “holiday” periods. On the drive back to camp we took the short drive up the hill to Stokes Lookout and soaked in the magic views, particularly those of Wilpena Pound which is compliment by this large copper model of the Pound.

Blinman area.
We headed north on the main road 30 kilometres to Blinman. A slight diversion off the road for a quick stop at the Walls of China, then onto Blinman – highest “town” in SA. After a quick look around it was on to Moolooloo Station and then onto the PAR (Public Access Road- unmaintained track really).

A good varied 4WD trip leading to the Nuccaleena Mine settlement ruins where Copper was discovered in 1855. A fascinating place to walk around and imagine the hardships that these men must have endured in this rugged isolated area.

Lunch stop was at a shady dry creek bed in the middle of some very poor countryside. More 4WDing along the PAR’s to Hannigan’s Gap.

Continuing on what was an interesting trip along the dry creek beds, up and down hills, over corrugations and through floodways. Finally we reached the ruins of old Atunga Homestead.

After a brief afternoon tea stop we continued on over more floodways. Finally arriving back at Blinman to find no unleaded fuel, so it was a detour to Angorachina for fuel through the interesting Parachilna Gorge before heading back to camp.

Trezona to Arkaroola.
Drove back up to Blinman then turned west and covered 30 odd kilometres before tuning onto the main road heading north toward Arkaroola.

About 19 kilometres further along this road is a turn off to Chambers Gorge. We left the Camper, and Shirl, in a dry creek bed and continued on into the gorge.

The 4WD track into the gorge followed the creek bed. You travel along, beside, and through this creek, weaving in, out, and around large rocks, plus easing ourselves over the creek banks that tested the approach and departure angles of the vehicle.

The track was reasonably busy, with many camps along its entire length. The magnificent rock walls and scenery, that you have to see to believe, were well worth the drive into the gorge. Returning to the main road it was another 90 kilometres of dusty road to Arkaroola.

Arkaroola was like Bourke Street with 4WDs everywhere.

We checked into the resort’s Caravan Park as it was time to recharge the batteries and to do the washing, plus “hot” showers would not go astray.

Arkaroola area.
On the first day we opted for the famous Ridge Top Tour, then to catch up on all the washing etc.

The tour is a spectacular 4-hour trip in the back of Troopies across the ridges to Sillars Lookout. A narrow one way “road“ which is fairly steep at times. The “car park” at Sillars Lookout is interesting with an extremely steep approach to a “platform” with sheer drops on all three sides.
An expensive trip, but well worth it.

On the second day we drove out to Paralana Hot Springs. Echo Backtrack made for an interesting first section of the drive.

Echo Camp waterhole is a pretty spot along this good one way 4WD track that has a bit of everything, and certainly more varied than proceeding up the 2WD main road.

The Paralana Hot Springs (temperature and low-level radioactivity) are a little disappointing. A small pool bubbling away between a couple of large boulders, with a whiff of sulphur, creating a small stream that is surrounded by lush vegetation.

After lunch we headed back down the main road and turned off onto Mount Jacob Backtrack.

An easy 4WD track with a number of hills and creek crossings. The walk down Tillite gorge was a little disappointing but at least provided some exercise.

Driving back to camp along this track gives some wonderful views of the ranges. We eventually came out on the main road to Arkaroola. A few kilometres down this road we turned off onto Station Backtrack (4WD only) which took us across country to the back of the Caravan Park.

Arkaroola to Hawker.
Reports from fellow campers regarding the lack of visible water in Lake Eyre changed our plans to travel up to Maree.

We set off for Leigh Creek through the beautiful Italowie Gorge, and the aboriginal village of Nepabunna which looked just like a ghost town as there was not a soul, or animal, to be seen.

Lunch stop was at Copely, but as it was a Sunday the famed bakery was closed.

It was now south down the black top to Hawker. Seven kilometres out of Hawker the Frontera came to grief (blown top radiator hose) and we ended up in Port Augusta.

We stayed in the Big4 Caravan Park whilst the car was repaired, filling in the days with a hire car and exploring the Port Augusta area.

The Arid Lands Botanical Gardens are a must see, as is the Wadlata Outback Centre. Also there are many magnificent old buildings on the Historic walk around Port Augusta.

We explored the Eyre Peninsula through Whyalla to Cowell, the York Peninsula down to Wallaroo via Ports Germein, Broughton and Pirie, Quorn and the Pichi Richi Railway, and the Lower Flinders Rangers including Melrose, Mt Remarkable (Alligator Gorge is a great walk) and Hancock’s Pass and Lookout.

Ten days in Port Augusta is more than enough. We have now been there and done that!!!

Finally the car was ready, so it was off to Adelaide then slowly home via the short inland route with an overnight stop at Bodertown. Don’t recommend the Bordertown Caravan Park due to the fact it is right on the Highway and the truck noise throughout the night is non stop.

The Frontera Sport had a new head and hoses fitted, but it was never the same. It lacked it previous power, particularly when towing the camper. A couple of 4WD trips confirmed the lack of power, so sadly it was time to say goodbye and we traded up to a 3.0l automatic TD Nissan Patrol.

Footnote:- Arkaroola resort.
Overall we were extremely disappointed in the Arkaroola resort.

Arkaroola itself is a remarkable place with some spectacular scenery, great 4WD tracks. It is a must see area of Australia and being somewhat “desert outback” you expect hot, dusty, stony, hard smelly water, and flies etc etc.

You are enticed to the “resort” by their advertising of facilities and attractions in this remote privately owned area. They charge top dollar for a powered site in the “Caravan Park” which we found to be an absolute shambles.

There was no clear delineation of sites which were so small that vehicles had no choice but to “block” the roads between the rows of sites.

Walking about, particularly to the amenity block, was a challenge even in daylight as there were no “paths/trails” to guide you up the hill between the various camps.

The amenity block itself was at best third rate in both cleanliness and its ability to provide any water (let alone hot water) or even toilet paper.

In the resort itself everything was a hassle to the frontline staff (reception, bar, and shop) who were not backward in letting you know what an inconvenience you were (this excludes tour staff who were great).

Relating this experience to other travellers has often had the response “well they haven’t changed”.

We have stayed at many “outback/isolated/remote resorts/areas” and were not impressed with this pathetic effort. To this day we have not received any reply to our detailed letter pointing out our experience at their “resort”.

September 2000.